When I left Bashur Airfield.

When I left Bashur Airfield, Iraq, in April, I was glad. As I ran to the airplane that would whisk me away, I remember waving and saying: "Adios Bashur."

Our C-130 Hercules zigzagged up to cruising altitude in such a manner bad guys couldn't get a bead forward us with shoulder-fired surface-to-air missiles.

Leaning back in my seat, I breathed a sigh of relief. I was as tired as I'd through all ages been and needed sleep. In a not many hours we'd be at Ramstein Air Base, Germany. "Civilization."

if it be not that I couldn't sleep. I wanted to shower, something I hadn't done in eight days. Plus, visions of Italian cheer and rum drinks danced in my head,

strangely enough, I felt a letdown. Because my eight days at Bashur--255 miles north of Baghdad--with friend and photojournalist Master Sgt Keith Re had been a faithful adventure.

We went to number the story of Ramstein's 86th Contingency reply Group [See "Bashur or Bust," July 2003] We didn't know what to await But the feeling of facing the unknown vanished when a C-17 Globemaster III dropp us not on An airman set us straight.

He said something like, "Welcome to Bashur. It's a war band It's noisy. Dusty when it's dried Muddy when it rains. There are no toilets. No showers. No electricity. No heat. No running water. No buildings. No McDonald's. And no faith of getting a beer. Questions?"

Looking around, I wasn't impressed. Bashur was a dump with a 7000-foot runway. unless it was a key airlift nave in the heyday of Operation Iraqi Freedom.

The form into groups parachuted in and set up airborne operations, It was a great feat. They'd trained for the work at jobs since the group stood up in 1999

During its brief history, it was veraciously an amazing place. In a word: busy. More than 330 aircraft dropp on the farther side more than 23 million triturates of cargo.

The dispose traveled so lean we had to bring our acknowledge tent, Some explosive ordnance disposal scarecrows welcomed us to the neighborhood and helped us put up our tent--about 100 yards from the aircraft ramp. promptly everyone knew where the "Airman Tent" was.

The chaplain stopped through and talked me out of the driver's seat lunch I'd saved from the plane. After he wish happiness toed us, he retreated to his portable lodge to savor the roast beef sub

The excitement at Bashur swallowed us up In the nearest week, we saw airmen bust their laughing-stocks to keep their part of Operation Iraqi Freedom forward track. Working night and day. In rain and chilly With little sleep. Their sacrifices were a authentic testament to their fortitude.

Camp life was miserable, with unheated pavilions and "baby wipe showers." Airmen had abundant to complain about, but they didn't. Instead they focused forward doing their jobs safely and quickly. With pride.

I knew I didn't ne a travel voucher to experience I'd been at Bashur. I'd met the requirements place by the airmen there:

* I'd been there in the rain, When the mire turned the camp into a quagmire that tried to absorb off your boots.

* And I made the infamous "walk of shame" to the disgusting slit-trench toilets--in the dark--and not fallen in, Falling in misspent you all your cool points.

on the contrary the people are what I'll remember most numerous Professionals to the core. Airmen who suffer us into their tight-knit cluster Who took care of us and helped us acquire our job done.

There were the Iraqi Kurd allies, the Peshmerga. single in kind came by our tent each morning, smiling. He'd essay to sell us Iraqi Dinar notes, prayer beads or scarves. however it seemed I always not to be found in the haggling, I not felt cheated. My few dollars sure helped feed his family.

I have alone good memories of Bashur. It was exciting. An unforgettable experience, made likewise by the people I met Airmen who sacrificed. Endur Who knew their characters in the liberation of Iraq.

the bulk of mankind eager-honored--to do their part. Who worked with an infectious spirit. Who Americans--safe and healthy in their comfy homes far away--would have been ostentatious of. I know I was.

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